Kafe Brisik

From the outside, Kafe Brisik doesn’t really draw you in. Besides the laminated menu with less than impressive photography of the food, the rather tacky banner and blown up food photos plastered on the outside hardly helped. If that is not enough to turn you away then maybe the unbearable silence from within the restaurant might. On this particular Sunday lunchtime, patrons were conspicuous by their absence. It really doesn’t help Brisik’s cause with the Duck King next door packed to the rafters and queues developing outside. This was truly an experiment in food quality as a function of a restaurant’s occupancy.

Thankfully there are certain rewards for the brave. If you dared to walk in, you’ll notice the comfortable alcove on the ground floor with sofas for those waiting for a table – although it wasn’t required on this occasion. The restaurant is a short climb upstairs where the dominant theme is mismatch. The hodgepodge of colours and fabrics that were chosen to decorate the restaurant was more hippy than hip. Although the cheap Formica tables with fake wood motifs were a definite irritation, the restaurant itself is spacious enough and comfortable.

The seat on the balcony is actually very pleasing. Although the vista may only be of half-filled office blocks as Jaya One is still fairly new, they managed to create a rather ideal location for hanging out and sipping a cool drink. There is also no need to worry about the service, for it is only the touch of a button away, with every table on the balcony equipped with a waiter-holler device.

After testing the reaction times of the staff – within 15 seconds every time – we settled upon the nasi brisik (RM14) and the nasi bendang (RM12). You might have guessed from the name of the restaurant that there will be a strong showing of Indonesian dishes on the menu. Beyond that, there is a whole host of dishes from Thailand and also smatterings of local and western dishes. Hodgepodge is certainly not restricted to the description of the surroundings.

However, the nasi brisik was very impressive. The rice was mixed with pumpkin, wrapped in banana leaf and shaped into an attractive cone. It was steamed beautifully to form a remarkable presentation on the plate. The fried fish, ulam and various condiments and sauces it came with were as substantial as it was flavoursome. The nasi bendang was less impressive visually but still a success for the kitchen in the preparation of fried chicken that still manages to remain juicy inside and crispy on the outside.

The kerapu Thai Sauce (RM17) was also highly enjoyable. It was a whole fried fish, doused with a lemongrass infused sweet-sour sauce. Presentation again was a winner, the chef managing to somehow freeze the leaping fish mid-motion and skilfully levering the flesh half-off so that the diner can tackle it easily.

It was strange that the biggest disappointment that day was the Fried Kangkung (RM4). Hardly a princely sum to pay, but you’d think they could put a few more leafy greens on the plate for that price. The ice coffee (RM5) was good though, using an obscure brand named Bushell’s, which I was told they had to make special trips to Singapore to get hold of.

All in all, rather less terrifying an experience than first thought. Food was more than satisfactory and the service was unobtrusive. After having the whole place to myself, I realized that following the crowd isn’t always the smartest thing to do.

Text & Photo Chan Wai Lee