Vintry (Jaya 33)

What happens when one of your favourite places attempts to conquer new ground? Like a favourite band you love, you lie in fear for what might happen if they tried to adopt a new sound or re-invent themselves in the name of personal discovery.

Dramatic as that may sound, Vintry at Bukit Damansara was well loved for all the same reasons that may have motivated it’s owners to seek new and uncharted territories. Small floor space, a quiet enclave and a lengthy waiting time for a table may have been complaints. But looking at it another way, Vintry’s was cosy, charming and always teeming with a good atmosphere.

With Vintry at Jaya 33, they have doubled the seating area many times over. But gone are the aged wooden shelves to store the wine, the nonchalant collection of books and records and even the rickety old staircase that proved a challenge on many occasions but was a charming peculiarity.

Instead, we have a huge modern bar counter, a cake display, pre-fabricated wine storage and a VIP room. Quite a different ambience altogether and it didn’t help that on a Sunday evening, only two other tables were filled.

An expansion that was welcomed was the increased number of wines by the glass on offer. The Pascal Jolivet Attitude Savignon (RM19) was a fruity and mild white, while the Nippozzano Reserva (RM22) was robust and lengthy, a very decent Chianti.

Vintry was famed for their roast pork and fried pork strips, but alas, they have decided to omit these in a new culinary direction. There was still plenty to choose from and the tapas dishes were all generously portioned.

The honey roasted whole chicken wings (RM12) were crispy and tasty, though the chilli sauce it came with was a little sweet. Goan chicken vindaloo (RM18) may not have been the best wine paring, but it had a delicious light sauce, served with lots of soft pita bread to soak up the gravy.

The Vintry mesclun salad (RM16) was a mount of fresh, crisp lettuce with the excellent Vintry fusion dressing. This was easily the most enjoyable dish. Unfortunately the coffee cheesecake (RM10) was not so good, having been cursed with an unsuitable gelatinous texture.

Vintry’s at Jaya 33 was not an outstanding experience, but there was little wrong. It offered decent wine and food, just not the same experience. As we can’t deny a bright child his desire to test himself, surely we cannot deny Vintry’s shot at having more customers enjoy their wines. Hopefully, some of the atmosphere from Bukit Damansara can find its way to Jaya 33 soon.

Text & Photo Chan Wai Lee