Fukuya

The original Fukuya at Jalan Delima in the heart of Kuala Lumpur city centre had a reputation as an exclusive restaurant. Styled after ancient, wealthy Japanese homes with a courtyard, they were known for their stunning surroundings as well as the exquisite food.

Although Fukuya at Bangsar Baru cannot boast of the same bountiful space, the style and ambience are very similar. There is plenty of the same calming stone and wood, even the way the napkins are folded and the little purple ribbons used to bind the wooden chopsticks are the same. There is plenty of space between tables and a selection of private rooms, making it ideal for an intimate dinner.

With so many similarities, it was not much of a surprise to find the prices also equally galling. A meal at Fukuya is not for the feint-hearted. Set meals begin at RM85 and if you opt for the Omakase Kaiseki, a chef’s recommended seasonal banquet-style course menu, expect to be relieved of RM220.

That is not to say that Fukuya is not worth the money. Rumoured to fly in their ingredients direct from Japan at least twice a week, there should not be a better place to sample the freshest Japanese produce.

When it comes to Japanese cooking, ingredients and technique are the most important. In fine Japanese cuisine, plenty of attention is given to the changes of the seasons and the unique flavours each embodies.

Since it was spring, we duly began with the Houren-So Ohitashi (RM9), which was spinach leafs in a light dashi broth. The crunch and flavour was different from ordinary spinach and it reflected the freshness of the season.

The Nagaimo Sen-Kiri (RM9), which is a Japanese yam, was very interesting. It had a crunchy texture with a natural sticky paste. It was served with a single raw quail egg, which you mixed in with the yam together with the desired amount of soy sauce.

To complete the starters, the Yaki Kinoko Salada (RM18) was perfect. This was a simple grilled mushroom salad with a light dressing flavoured with sesame oil.

To test Fukuya’s claim to freshness, the sashimi had to be sampled. Azuma (RM80), an assortment of seven types of raw fish and seafood, was duly despatched from the kitchen. All promises were fulfilled; for these were some of the best sashimi you could come across when not in Japan.

The Hokkaido scallops were outstanding, so wonderfully sweet. The Tai, a type of sea bream not always found on menus here, was also equally fantastic. And the more familiar salmon, amberjack, tuna, octopus and yellowtail are all some of the best around.

Fukuya also excelled at the more unusual creations. Chef Ando’s unagi chilipadi maki (RM14) was a real winner. There was plenty of tasty, barbequed eel with just the right hint of fiery chilli.

They fell surprisingly short though with the Yakitori (RM12). For a place that clearly prided itself in technique and preparation, the chicken was not as juicy as it could have been. But they did quickly redeem themselves with the soft shell crab tempura (RM18). It was light, crispy and not greasy – all signs of a good tempura.

Fukuya will definitely give you one of the best experiences of fine Japanese cooking in Malaysia without actually flying to Japan, as long as you are willing to shell out for it.

Text & Photo Chan Wai Lee

UPDATE: Fukuya at One Bangsar has since closed. The original restaurant on Jalan Delima, Kuala Lumpur is still open for business.