Xenri D’Garden Terrace

Sometimes I have to take my hat off. There are occasions when I expect to be disappointed and I have already formulated the scathing remarks I am going to unleash upon my unsuspecting victims. But the restaurant manages to leave me with very little to complain about. This was one such occasion.

The original Xenri at Wisma Elken on Jalan Klang Lama already has a solid reputation for the value buffets on weekends. When they brought the same concept to the heart of the city in Menara Hap Seng with a 50% discount opening promotion, mayhem ensued. Many were left frustrated by the unanswered phone calls and no one could get a table on the weekends for the duration of the promotion. Buffets ought to be sniggered at. A restaurant promotes itself so gracelessly surely could not be that good. Furthermore, the real test has to be how they perform from the a la carte menu. Armed with an annoyance of unrequited telecommunication and a palate poisoned with doubt, I set out to see what Xenri really had to offer.

The first salvo is aimed at the chef and his omakase menu (RM180)—a selection of his best dishes. Every plate was served with the freshest ingredients prepared with confidence. This made it tough to hate them. From the appetiser consisting of baby eel with gold leaf, vinegared scallop with tofu and seaweed root, to the black sesame ice cream with red bean mochi, it was a well-designed experience. In between, the king crab claw clear soup was extremely flavourful while the scallop and sweet prawn sashimi was as fresh as can be.

The meal built to a crescendo of grilled wagyu beef with foie gras, easily the best dish of the day. Chunky pieces of perfectly pink and marbled beef topped with a generous portion of foie gras and served remarkably on a leaf on top of a hot stone. Still had to leave room for the seafood stew (kaminabe), served in a paper bowl with prawn, salmon, leek and mushroom, and also a luxurious oyster and uni kamameshi, served in a beautiful iron hotpot. Any doubt about their dinner sets was equally refuted with the Xenri Bento (RM42). The quality sashimi of octopus, salmon and tuna was evident while the grilled mackerel was moist and juicy with a caramelised flavour. The simmered duck proved to be a surprising and enthralling component while the strawberries were plump and sweet. Even the steamed rice, so important in judging Japanese cooking technique, was beyond reproach.

The kitchen managed the individual dishes with distinction. The Kaisou Salad (RM16) did not skimp on the seaweed or the excellent citrus dressing. The Soft Shell Crab Tempura (RM28) was also one of the better dishes, with a wonderful crispiness without any of the undesirable oiliness. The Amari Kamameshi (RM38) used Japanese clams steamed together with flavoured rice while the Surume Ika Teriyaki (RM32) featured a large squid, grilled perfectly. The only disappointment was the Malaysian Roll (RM25), a sushi roll with eel in the middle and mango slices on the outside. It was a strange combination that will not please many.

But the recovery was swift with the Yuzu Ice Cream (RM12)—more like a sorbet. And the Macha Ice Cream (RM8) is one of the best amongst all the Japanese restaurants. Fortunately the restaurant had run out of humble pie or I would have been forced to stuff it down my oversized belly as well. Instead, I left with a growing appreciation for Xenri and feeling more than lucky not being able to secure a table for their buffet.

Text & Photo Chan Wai Lee